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That's actually a ploy, unless he's going to do it for free. Your new fluid is already mixed with your old fluid, and your torque converter stayed full of the old fluid. You'll never actually get all of the old fluid out, just reduce the overall percentage of the crap fluid in the system. If he was that concerned, he could have flushed your trans cooler and lines, without hurting the transmission, and increased the percentage of new good fluid in the system.The auto mechanic stated what you said. He said he does not do automatic transmission flushes because it causes problems with the seals. He just drained the fluid and refilled it.
I will also do what you said and not take the car on any long trips either for about one hundred miles. The technician recommended I bring the car back in and have the fluid changed again in about 8,000 to 10,000 miles to get all the other really old fluid out.
And I thought my counter tops looked crappy... Holy crap!Well now that that is out of the way...
I did a stove install that was supposed to be a simple swap out. New stove was on sight and the old stove wasn't my responsibility to dispose of. I was only involved because the old stove was the fitted kind, not cabinet style, so I was going to need to recut the counter top opening and the trim plate along the base cabinets to make a full opening to shove the new stove in.
So somebody measured the new stove wrong and it didn't fit the front of the opening, the base cabinets were too narrow at the back because they were installed crooked so I had to completely pull and reinstall the bases, the countertop was installed cock-eyed on purpose to hide the mistake so that got yanked and reset, and I had the client change her mind about the backslash AFTER I finished the install...
So yeah...stove job done. I think she should be happy I did it for free.
BEFORE SHE CHANGED HER MIND:
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AFTER:
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Glad mine is under warranty! And free oil changes at the dealer! This dealer is good, they do not hire hacks. As little as I drive I will prolly be dead before the trans fluid needs changing LOLThis is why I do my own wrenching as often as possible. Way too many shady places out there. Oh, did you get it changed or flushed the first time? Never flush your transmission. Run it up to operating temp, shut the vehicle off, then drain and fill only.
If anyone wasn't aware, flushing your transmission can end up causing catastrophic failures by washing out any of the built up "gunk" that seals your transmission's micro gaps and fissures during the initial break-in process. When you get your fluid changes you should also take it easy for the first fifty to one-hundred miles or so and not take any long trips. It's possible that you can destroy the new fluid. New vehicle fluids need to be "tempered" for lack of a better term, before you run them hard.
Side note: most mech shops have massive catch cans for fluid jobs since just about everything but the coolant is petroleum based. If you didn't see him pull the black trans fluid directly from your car, he may have just been blowing smoke where the sun don't shine. I always take a picture of it being removed and save contaminated fluids in a separate container to show clients if I think they're the kind of customer that wants to or needs to know those things, because I'm also one of those customers.
These people were the artistic type. Buy crap and slap a "kit" on it to make it look fancy. They looked great when I moved in. My asshole children don't know how not to abuse stuff and it's getting worse now that I'm gone.And I thought my counter tops looked crappy... Holy crap!
That’s really only true if you wait beyond the recommended service mileage.The auto mechanic stated what you said. He said he does not do automatic transmission flushes because it causes problems with the seals. He just drained the fluid and refilled it.
I will also do what you said and not take the car on any long trips either for about one hundred miles. The technician recommended I bring the car back in and have the fluid changed again in about 8,000 to 10,000 miles to get all the other really old fluid out.
Actually, you should only change it according to manufacturer's recommendations. Between 30 and 100k miles.That’s really only true if you wait beyond the recommended service mileage.
Which most people do, hence the reason why it’s a bad idea for most people.
Change it while it’s mostly clean and you’re good to go. Keep doing it that way and the trans will usually last longer than never changing the fluid.
You are correct Rachgier. The Mazda 5 I have recommended maintenance for the transmission fluid is never change. I do not believe it though. After the fluid was changed I noticed the transmission seems to be working better.Actually, you should only change it according to manufacturer's recommendations. Between 30 and 100,000 miles.
His problem is that every Mazda SKYACTIV transmission comes with "lifetime" fluid that never needs to be replaced unless a major component is swapped out, or a new transmission has been installed. So if he has a SKYACTIV transmission, he would have violated the manufacturer's power train warranty for having it serviced outside of a Mazda dealership.
You are correct Rachgier. The Mazda 5 I have recommended maintenance for the transmission fluid is never change. I do not believe it though. After the fluid was changed I noticed the transmission seems to be working better.
I will likely have the transmission fluid changed again when 50,000 miles passes. I doubt it will hurt the transmission doing this maintenance.
The burban has that "Auto 4WD" button that engages the transfer case and leaves it up to the wheel speed sensors to detect slip and engage the front axle on the fly.... the very same thing chevy recommended you not do back in '01.Ironically, my Ford Edge AWD has a 'forever fluid' recommendation on the PTU (Power Transfer Unit). Its not really 4WD or AWD but has the 'intelligent' AWD system that transfers power to the rear wheels as needed via the PTU. Don't really know how 'intelligent' it is as the AWD models have problems with burning out the PTU's. Seems the PTU is bolted on right near where the header routes down to the exhaust pipe. The 75w140 in the PTU eventually sludges up under heat and the PTU burns up. So much for intelligence in engineering. I've changed it twice since there is a suck/fill port on the top of the unit. Bugger to get to but so far no problems at 125k miles.