The Hi Point 995 carbine has been around for now 20 years and has won the hearts and minds of a generation of shooters. However, they get dirty and from time to time need some attention. Remember, according to Mom on a Hi Point carbine: "Barrel should be brushed every 300-400 rounds. Complete disassembly and cleaning should be performed at 1500-2000 rounds"

While newer TS series guns have a slightly easier takedown process as witnessed by this video by Hutt Wigley:

The older 1st gen guns were a little more touch and go. Perhaps one of the best guides we have on the forum to handle this was created years ago by Wolf from WV.

As a safety note: always make sure your HI Point is unloaded before any disassembly/assembly procedure. To do this, with your finger off the trigger and the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, drop the magazine, rack the bolt three (3) times, visibly and physically inspect the chamber for any brass or ammo, and then remove the magazine and any cartridges from the room before continuing.

And without further ado, take it away Wolf! -- (Editors)

Wolf's 995 Disassembly Guide

I do not recommend taking it this far apart...

As Clint Eastwood said, "A man has got to know his limitations."


Note: Internal pins except for the ejector key pin are driven out from left to right. The ejector key pin is driven upwards.

Armorer Toolkit


* Stock: 1/8" Allen wrench
* The screw in front of the trigger guard: 3/32" Allen wrench
* Front sight set screws: 5/64" Allen wrench
* Front sight bolt: 5/16"
* Rear sight screws: 3/32" Allen wrench
* Compensator: 9/64" Allen wrench
* 1/4" wrench
* 5/16" wrench (2)
* 7/16" wrench
* 1/16" pin punch
* 3/32" pin punch
* 1/8" pin punch
* Semi-large non-marring punch
* Ball peen hammer
* Hockey pucks for bench blocks

As I disassemble mine, I am finding a few big differences in takedown from the Gun Digest Book...

1. Remove the magazine from the gun. Make sure gun is unloaded. Make sure the gun is unloaded again. Pull the trigger to drop the firing pin into the fired position. Use a 7/16" wrench to remove the cocking handle.

2. Use 2 5/16" wrenches to remove the nuts and bolts from the receiver cover. Lift the receiver cover up off the gun.




3. Lift the barrel shroud up at the rear, pull it backwards to disengage the tab from the front sight post, and take it off.



4. Remove the Allen screw from the stock near the front sight.

5. Use a non-marring punch to slide the retainer clip off the action-mounting lug towards the front.


6. Lift the barrel and receiver unit at the front, and remove it from the stock.




7. The magazine release button is press fit on its shaft, and should not be disturbed in normal takedown. If access to the magazine catch and spring is necessary for repair, you must separate the two sides of the stock unit.


This requires the removal of screws on each side of the handgrip, and six cross-screws in the stock.


After the eight screws are taken out, there are two small clips on the underside of the stock and trigger guard that must be removed before the two sides of the stock are separated.


8a. Drift out the roll pin at the rear of the receiver.


8b. Mine doesn't have a roll pin, it has a retainer that slides back to release.


9. Move the breechblock slightly (about 1/4") to the rear, just enough to clear the extractors from their recess in the barrel. Lift the breech block at the rear to pull the under lug of the striker spring base out of the receiver unit. The spring base may be tight, requiring a small tool to be inserted to assist it upward.


10. Restrain the breechblock against the tension of the recoil spring, tilt it upward to clear its lower edge above the barrel, and ease it off toward the front. Some manipulation will be necessary to clear it past the front sight.

11. Remove the recoil spring from its channel below the barrel.

12. Remove the striker spring base from the rear of the breechblock. Use a small punch to start moving the firing pin rearward, and remove it and the spring.



13. The twin extractors are pivoted and retained by a vertical pin, accessible on the underside of the breechblock. CAUTION: Control the coil spring that powers the extractors.

14a. Restrain the sear, and tip the sear lever off the crosspin. Remove the sear lever upward and toward the rear. (Note: Sear pin is driven out from left to right.)

14b. My sear pin is part of the sear. It comes out by lifting up on the bar on the right side a little, and just lifting the sear out.



15. Remove the sear and its spring upward.

16. Push the drop safety to its upper position, and use a small tool to lift the sear arm to vertical.

17. Remove the drop safety bar downward. The counterweight is machined with a ridge on one side and the slot in the housing is machined to accept it. The flat side of the weight is reinstalled to the rear. The ridge on the weight is reinstalled to the front.


18. The arm can then be taken out toward the right. Drifting out the trigger crosspin will allow the trigger to be moved rearward and taken out downward, along with the attached trigger bar. The small trigger pin is near the edge in the alloy receiver unit, and except for repair, this system is best left in place. (Note: The arm of the disconnector has to be raised up toward the receiver and the trigger slid to the bottom of the housing before the assembly can be removed to the front.)

19. If the trigger has been removed, drifting out this crosspin will release the trigger bar and its spring. Control the spring.

20. The safety and its detent ball and spring are not routinely removable.

21. The front sight post and ring are vertically adjustable. If the adjustment screw is backed all the way out, the post and ring can be taken out.

The front sight base is retained on the barrel by two screws on the underside. With those removed, the base and the barrel band can be slid off toward the front.


22. If necessary for repair, the barrel can be removed from the receiver by drifting out two roll pins.


*When reinstalling the breechblock, use a tool to guide the striker spring base into its hole in the receiver. Align the holes with a drift punch before driving the roll pin in place.

*Make sure all the stock screws are snug, but do not overtighten.